Welcome to Travel Readings
Melbourne: The Slap by Christos Tsiolkas
Books, Movies and Beyond…
Books, Movies and Beyond…: Washington, DC and New York
Books, Movies and Beyond…: Rome
Rio de Janeiro: Crimes of August (Agosto) by Rubem Fonseca
Istanbul: The Museum of Innocence by Orhan Pamuk
Liège (Belgium): Pedigree by Georges Simenon
Books, Movies and Beyond…: Lisbon
Books, Movies and Beyond…: Cambodia
Hyde Park, Chicago: Ravelstein by Saul Bellow
Paris: Flowers of Ruin and Suspended Sentences by Patrick Modiano
Books, Movies and Beyond…: Naples
Books, Movies and Beyond…: Tanzania
Sri Lanka: Running in the Family by Michael Ondaatje
Books, Movies and Beyond… : Venice
Dublin: The Dead by James Joyce
Books, Movies and Beyond: Iran
Santa Cruz, Bolivia: The Matter of Desire (Materia del Deseo) by Edmundo Paz Soldán
Books, Movies and Beyond: Syria
Djibouti: Passage of Tears (Passage des Larmes) by Abdourahman Waberi
Books, Movies and Beyond: Armenia
Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso: The Parachute Drop by Norbert Zongo
Bangkok: Sightseeing by Rattawut Lapcharoensap
Périgord, France: The Caves of Périgord by Martin Walker
Books, Movies and Beyond: Brussels
Naples: The Neapolitan Novels by Elena Ferrante
Books, Movies and Beyond: Rio de Janeiro
Tajikistan: Hurramabad by Andrei Volos
New-York: City on Fire by Garth Risk Hallberg
Israel and Palestine: To the End of the Land by David Grossman and Wild Thorns by Sahar Khalifeh
Books, Movies and Beyond: Bavaria and Southern Germany
Cape Town: Boyhood, Youth and Summertime by J.M. Coetzee
Books, Movies and Beyond: India
Blue Ridge Mountains: Cold Mountain by Charles Frazier
Books, Movies and Beyond: Algeria
Austrian Alps: A Whole Life (Ein ganzes Leben) by Robert Seethaler
Books, Movies and Beyond: Africans in America
Zimbabwe: The Last Resort by Douglas Rogers
Books, Movies and Beyond: Colombia
Belgian Ardennes: The All Saints’ Day Lovers by Juan Gabriel Vásquez
Côte d’Ivoire: Aya of Yop City by Marguerite Abouet and Clément Oubrerie
Japan: Haruki Murakami and Amélie Nothomb
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York: The Goldfinch by Donna Tartt and The Rope and The Denial of Saint Peter by Charles Baudelaire
Books, Movies and Beyond: Cairo
Vancouver: What is Remembered by Alice Munro
Ghent (Belgium): War and Turpentine by Stefan Hertmans
Haiti: An Aroma of Coffee and Dining with the Dictator by Dany Laferrière and The Comedians by Graham Greene
Iceland: Jar City by Arnaldur Indriðason
Siena and Tuscany : Il Palio delle contrade morte by Fruttero & Lucentini and The English Patient by Michael Ondaatje
China : Wild Swans. Three Daughters of China, by Jung Chang
Amsterdam: The Miniaturist by Jessie Burton
Père Lachaise Cemetery, Paris
Former Soviet Union: The Unwomanly Face of War  by Svetlana Alexievich
Provence: The Horseman on the Roof by Jean Giono, La charrette bleue by René Barjavel, Madame de Sévigné and Ventoux by Bert Wagendorp
Moscow: The House of Government by Yuri Slezkine, The Master and Margarita by Mikhail Bulgakov and Limonov by Emmanuel Carrère
Books, Movies and Beyond: Vietnam
Books, Movies and Beyond: The Wars in Vietnam

Tajikistan: Hurramabad by Andrei Volos

My professional meetings in Dushanbe, Tajikistan’s capital city, are long. Because my colleagues and I don’t speak Russian or Tajik, we are always accompanied by an interpreter who translates from English to Russian and vice-versa. This gives me some time to scrutinize the gallery of portraits of the Ministers of Health who occupied the job since the early Soviet period: some energetic matrons in the first years of Communism, rigid pictures adorned with an array of medals after World War II. Interestingly, the country’s independence in 1991 is not marked.


This continuity with the Russian and Soviet period can also be seen in the cultural references. When I suggested that in some rural health centers the medical staff sometimes seemed lethargic and not strongly motivated, my counterpart recommended me to read one of Anton Chekhov’s short story, « Ionitch » describing the life of a young doctor full of high aspirations as he arrives in a provincial district but who, after going through romantic and professional disillusions, ends up rich but lazy and cynical.


At first sight, Dushanbe also seems like a harmonious mix of Russian and Tajik influences. At the bottom of snow-capped mountains, one walks in a few steps from long avenues lined by official buildings reminiscent of the elegance and the pastel colors of palaces in Saint-Petersburg to the morning market filled by the noises, colors, fragrances and savors of Central Asia. In Farsi, Dushanbe means “Monday”, a reminder that the city was founded where the market took place on the week’s first day.


In the country side, the village forms an honor row in traditional Tajik costume to welcome the official delegation. Children are dancing following the tambourines’ rhythm and young girls are offering the hospitality’s bread and honey. But after the visit and the lunch’s plov, it with vodka that the toasts are made. Walking in the Fan range, the splendid mountains encircling Iskandar Kul (Alexander’s lake), we encountered as many Tajik shepherds and peasants than Russian trekkers.


Andrei Volos’s « Hurramabad » a collection of seven novellas translated from Russian is also set at the confluence of the Russian and Tajik heritages.  But the cohabitation is not, or rather is not anymore, harmonious. Volos is a Russian writer born in Dushanbe, a city that was called Stalinabad at that time. After studying in Moscow, he came back to Tajikistan and translated Tajik poetry. His short stories, very elegantly written in Chekhov’s tradition, tell the nostalgia in a Russian community in Tajikistan torn apart after the independence and by the civil war which followed in the 90s.




The first story, « The Ascent », describes one grand-son and his grand-mother climbing towards the grand-father’s tomb. The ascent is steep and at each pause, the grand-mother remembers her arrival from Russia in the 30s to be reunited with her husband posted with the Soviet army on the Afghan border along the Amur-Daria River. In « A Local Man », a young Russian scientist is sent on mission to a research institute in Tajikistan. Contrary to his colleagues who are only dreaming of coming back to Moscow, he starts loving the country, learns the language, marries a Tajik girl and asks to remain in this position. But mocked by his Tajik colleagues, his transfer is rejected. He doesn’t care, and remains in Hurramabad where, perfectly happy, he will end up slicing vegetables and preparing pies on the market.

« The House by the River » tells the story of Yamninov, a Russian who just finished to build with his own hands his dream house by the river. But the house attracts interest and during the civil war, one of the country’s new masters, an arrogant warlord, takes him to the notary and forces him to sell his property for a ridiculously low price. Yamninov uses the money to buy a machine-gun and awaits the usurper without fear, ready to die defending his house…


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *